Abstract

Purpose: The purpose of this work is to study the relationship between the fabric mechanical properties such as Tear strength (T_S), Breaking strength (B_S) and Cloth’s Dimensional Stability (Sh), particularly, after industrial launderings (stone wash, enzyme wash, mixed wash and rinse). Hence, we attempt to select the most interrelationships using the Principal Component Analysis (PCA) technique. In this study, the treatments of finishing garments during washing are the important parameters influencing cloth’s dimensional and the fabric mechanical properties. To improve the obtained results, the selected significant inputs are also analyzed within their influence on shrinkage. The polynomial regression model relating the Tear strength and the shrinkage denim fabric proves the effectiveness of the PCA method and the obtained findings.

Design/methodology/approach: To investigate the matter, the type of washing and their contributions on shrinkage, four types of fabrics manufactured into pants were used. These fabrics differ not only by their basis weights (medium and heavy weight fabrics) but, also by their compositions (within and without elastane), and their thread count (warp and weft yarn count, twist and density. To evaluate significantly results, a factorial design analysis based on an experimental design was established. The choice of these treatments, as well as their design mode, led us to make a complete factorial experimental design.

Findings: According to the results, the prediction of shrinkage behaviour as function of the process washing input parameters seems significant and useful in our experimental design of interest. As a consequence, it was concluded also that after these input parameters, we can find the relationship between the shrinkage and the mechanical properties Tear strength (T_S warp) and Tear strength (T_S weft). Thanks to the PCA, it is very easy to reduce the number of the influent output parameters, and knowing these significant parameters, the prediction of mechanical properties knowing the shrinkage denim garment, during the process of washing seems successful and can undoubtedly help industrial to minimize the poor workmanship of the finishing quality.

Practical implications: This study is very interesting for finishing denim garment. The shrinkage is very important for correcting measures in sewing, considering that a high shrinkage may causes the cancellation of the fit from the client. This type of defect cannot be repaired in the major part of the cases and causes a big lost for the company, moreover the mechanical properties. For this reason, analysing the value of shrinkage before starting the production cycle is of great importance to apply the right balance to the pattern. The model of predicting the mechanical properties behaviours as function of the shrinkage denim garment leads manufacturers to eliminate the test of mechanical properties that remain as destructive tests. Moreover, according to results obtained, it may be concluded that prediction still accurate through the shrinkage test which is an inevitable test. Even thought, these results can bring a huge gain for the garment wash industries.

Originality/value: This work presents the first study predicting a relationship between the mechanical properties and denim garment shrinkage, applying the PCA technique to minimize the all-output parameters which are not significant or correlated with each other. Besides, it deals with the relationship developed between the fabric mechanical properties such as Tear strength (T_S), Breaking strength (B_S) and Cloth’s Dimensional Stability (Sh), particularly, after industrial launderings (stone wash, enzyme wash, mixed wash and rinse). Moreover, it is notable to mention that the originality of this study is to let the garment wash industries to save in production time of orders and also in quality.

Keywords:Denim fabric; Principal component analysis; Shrinkage; Mechanical properties; Laundering