Gokarneshan N*
Department of Textile Chemistry, SSM College of Engineering, India
*Corresponding author:Gokarneshan N, Formerly Professor, Department of Textile Chemistry, SSM College of Engineering, Komarapalayam, Tamil Nadu, India
Submission: March 20, 2026;Published: March 31, 2026
ISSN: 2576-8840 Volume 22 Issue 4
Muga silk is a rare, golden-yellow, non-mulberry silk indigenous to Assam, India, produced by Antheraea assamensis worms. It is renowned for its extreme durability, natural golden luster, high tensile strength (2.84g/den), and exceptional UV protection. It is primarily used for high-end traditional garments, accessories, and, due to its biocompatibility, emerging biomedical applications.
a)Unique color & luster: Possesses a natural, shimmering golden-yellow sheen that increases in luster after washing.
b)Exceptional durability: Known as one of the most durable natural fibers, with garments lasting for decades.
c)High strength & low elongation: It has high tensile strength (Up to 7.5MPa or 4g/den).
d)Thermal stability & comfort: Superior thermal stability (>300 ℃) and good, absorbing up to 85% of harmful UV rays.
e)Composition: Composed mainly of the insoluble protein fibroin (roughly 72-76%) coated with sericin.
f)Comfort: It is breathable, lightweight, and hypoallergenic, with good moisture regain (10%).
a)Traditional apparel: Primarily used for making traditional Assamese attire like Mekhela Chador, sarees, and shawls.
b)Fashion & accessories: Used for high-end fashion garments, scarves, and accessories due to its luxurious, exclusive, and expensive nature.
c)Interior decor: Utilized for high-end soft furnishings, including upholstery, curtains, and cushions.
d)Biomedical & technical: Due to biocompatibility, it is used in, or researched for, tissue engineering scaffolds, wound dressings, and sutures. It is also used for specialized industrial products.
a) High cost & rarity: Limited geographical production in Assam (assigned a Geographical Indication tag in 2007).
b) Labor intensive: Requires significant manual labor for
rearing, reeling, and weaving.
c) Production vulnerability: The silkworms are susceptible to
climate changes and pollution, threatening future production.
Muga silk is considered one of the most durable and prestigious silks in the world, often referred to as the “golden thread” of Assam.
Muga silk is a rare, naturally golden-yellow fiber produced exclusively in Assam, India, by the Antheraea assamensis silkworm. Renowned as one of the world’s strongest natural fibers, it is distinguished by a shimmering luster that deepens and improves with every wash.
Muga silk’s unique value stems from a combination of physical,
chemical, and biological characteristics:
a) Natural golden luster: It possesses a permanent, brilliant
golden-yellow hue derived from the silkworm’s diet
of Som and Soalu leaves, eliminating the need for synthetic
dyes.
b) Exceptional durability: It is widely cited as the strongest
natural silk. Garments are known for their longevity, often
lasting over 100 years and outliving the original wearer.
c) UV protection: The fabric’s microstructure naturally absorbs
approximately 85% of harmful ultraviolet rays, offering skin
protection against sun damage.
d) Thermal regulation: Like other silks, it is a poor conductor of
heat, making it breathable and cool in summer while providing
warmth in winter.
e) Hypoallergenic & skin-friendly: The fiber is 97% protein
and contains 18 amino acids that can aid skin regeneration
and moisture retention. It is highly resistant to dust, fungus,
and mold.
f) Stain resistance: Because the fiber is naturally less porous
than other silks, it is highly resistant to staining and cannot be
easily bleached.
Muga silk is a cornerstone of Assamese heritage and a high-end
luxury textile globally:
a) Ceremonial attire: Its primary use is in traditional Assamese
garments such as the Mekhela Sador (a two-piece women’s
dress), Gamosa (rectangular cloth), and wedding Sarees.
b) Modern global fashion: International designers utilize Muga
for contemporary luxury items, including kimonos, evening
gowns, jackets, stoles, and neckties.
c) Home furnishings: Due to its durability and stain resistance,
it is used for upscale upholstery, wall hangings, cushion covers,
and window treatments.
Beyond textiles, Muga silk’s high tensile strength and
biocompatibility have led to innovative technical uses:
a) Biomedical engineering: Researchers utilize Muga silk
fibroin for tissue engineering scaffolds, wound dressings, and
bone/cartilage regeneration. Its antimicrobial properties also
make it a candidate for surgical applications.
b) Industrial strength products: It is used in the manufacture of
high-performance items such as parachute ropes, aircraft and
bicycle tires, and artillery gunpowder bags.
c) Sustainable tech: Recent studies have explored using
silkworm pupae waste for high-quality biodiesel production
and using the protein for 3D printing bio-inks.
a) Assam muga silk saree: A traditional, 100% genuine
handloom product often certified with a Govt. Silk Mark for
authenticity.
b) Guna muga silk saree: A heritage piece typically adorned
with floral motifs woven in guna (zari).
c) Indidha pure muga silk saree: Praised for its smooth texture
and elegant drape, suitable for formal occasions.
a Creative Commons Attribution 4.0 International License. Based on a work at www.crimsonpublishers.com.
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